The Kilt
Taken from the 40th annual commemorative program.

To truly appreciate the movements of the Highland dancers, one must know a bit of the history of Scotland. For example, the dance known as Seann Trubhais, the Dance of the Old Trews or trousers, relates to the history of an important element of Scottish dress, the Kilt...

If there is one image universally associated with the Scots, it is undoubtedly that of a swirling kilt, dramatically bringing to mind heroes of Scottish history and the rugged beauty of the Highlands. Its suitability for rough country wear and its ease and comfort for an active people have always made it a favorite over the British trousers. Tartan, the material from which the kilt is made, has been widely acclaimed for its beauty, and has been copied and modified for use in every part of the world.

Until the sixteenth century, at least, Scottish dress consisted of the léine-chroich, a kind of shirt reaching a little below the knee, and the breacan-féile, a single piece of tartan as much as two yards wide and for to six yards long. This was wrapped around the body with the portion covering the back folded into pleats, the ends forward across the front of the body, and the garment secured around the waist with a belt. One end was fastened on the left shoulder with a large brooch. The breacan-féile was a very utilitarian item, since it served as clothing during the day and a blanket at night.
In time, the féile-beag or “little kilt” was developed to replace the more cumbersome breacan-féile. It is this form of the kilt which is used today.

The importance of the traditional Highland dress to the Scots was demonstrated by the action of the English after the defeat of Bonnie Prince Charlie at the Battle of Culloden in 1746. It was this battle which ended the Jacobite Rising begun the year before in an attempt to return the throne of Scotland to the Stuarts.

After the battle, all Highlanders were forced by an Act of Parliament to take the following oath or be treated as outlaws:

“I, ............ do swear, as I shall answer to God at the great day of Judgement, I have not, nor shall have in my possession any gun, sword, pistol or arm whatsoever, and never use tartan, plaid, or any part of the Highland Garb; and if I do may I be cursed in my undertakings, family and property — may I be killed in battle as a coward, and lie without burial in a strange land, far from the graves of my forefathers and kindred; may all this come across me if Ibreak my oath.”

In 1782 the act forbidding the wearing of Highland dress was repealed, but the thirty-six years had produced a population in which the majority of people had never even seen the traditional dress. Therefore there was no immediate resurgence in the use of the kilt and tartan. Persons interested in preserving the Highland traditions, however, began attempts to reestablish the old customs of dress.

Finally, in 1822, when King George IVvisited Edinburgh, the Highland chiefs were persuaded to attend the official functions in Highland Dress. This event caused a widespread renewal of interest in the wearing of the kilt and the use of the clan tartans.

Traditionalists among us will rejoice that some of the young ladies will be wearing the very attractive “Aboyne” dress. (There is much evidence to support the Scottish claim that ladies may wear trousers, but the kilt — never!) Based on the traditional dress of Highland women, the “Aboyne” dress has a loose tartan skirt which is gathered at the waist. A plaid or shawl of the same material is worn and also a rather close-fitting bodice. A light-colored, loose-sleeved blouse completes the outfit and the costume is adorned with tartan ribbons and silver buttons of a Celtic pattern.

Reprinted from Delaware Highland Gathering Program August 3, 1963