By the time we get going out the door on mornings like this, it’s actually afternoon. It might have had something to do with not waking up until mid-day after a very late night. I think I finally was asleep at just about 3:00 am. Late breakfast or brunch doesn’t seem to be a thing here, perhaps it’s a thing on Sundays, so we often start the day with a hearty lunch as our main meal of the day.
Once we finished walking around a bit and eating, it was 3’ish. Some other stops we had in mind were closing up (the glass houses at the Botanical Gardens and the Glasgow Museum of Modern Art that we see from our room) so we put them aside for another day.
In the meantime, we’re going to offer up some of the thoughts we have collected over our visit so far.
Thoughts about the city when the sun comes out
We try to go with the flow with any weather, but it’s notable when a change in the weather affects the folks around you. The sun was out most of the day, the majority of the deep puddles were gone, and the wind was a gentle spring-like breeze. Apparently, this brought out huge crowds unseen thus far on our city walkabouts. Up and down Buchanan Street was filled with waves of individuals and families out and about among the protestors and flags, a ballon twister making minions for children, and the ever-present music buskers, today with people actually stopping to listen for a bit. The shops and restaurants all appeared to be busy and with some folks eating their meals outside on the patios.
City of Glasgow College’s own version of Christiana Towers
Our thoughts drift off to US cities and wonder what distinguishes vibrant cities such as Glasgow from struggling ones. Glasgow deals with similar issues (trash, homelessness, crime, traffic, etc.) but seems to have strong responses to each. Trash is still a problem here, but it appears to get a 24 hour response. On more than one occasion, we’ve been strolling home early in the morning hours and see a crew out tending to street cleanup and rubbish removal. We don’t know the full story on homelessness here, but it seems to be under control with a few panhandlers here and there and no tent establishments around. We’ve become aware of some social support efforts, like the conversion of abandoned flats and The Marie Trust facilities. Crime still happens, although one person said that the limited availability of guns has reduced the threat level significantly. Traffic is probably the most different compared to US cities. Areas designated as LEZ or low emissions zone have been cut traffic to mostly cabs and busses and a limited number smaller sized cars. Buses are often full (on two levels!) and being a pedestrian or cyclist is pretty easy. It’s rare to see bumper to bumper traffic in the city center. It’s even more rare to see what we would call a full-size vehicle, whether van, SUV, or pickup. (One mid-sized Ford Ranger passed by and you realize that’s the first pickup you’ve seen in days.)
Glasgow has a big problem with outdated and unused buildings, some really massive, with what appears to be limited interest in investment. One such example, imagine our local abandoned Christiana Towers residence hall located in the center of a city. More about architecture later,
A word about potatoes
Now I am sure some of you will roll your eyes at this next segment, but the potatoes here are the yummy-est I’ve ever tasted.
When I happen to eat potatoes, they’re usually just as a happy hour french fry, soup addition, or Thanksgiving mash. The majority of the time I don’t touch potatoes, not really being a huge fan. I have had to start eating them for their extra boost of potassium. While not a potato expert, I have become quite familiar with them of late, trying to find more palatable ways to eat them.
All of the potatoes I have eaten here have been “omg, you have got to try this potato” level yum. I first noticed it in some great fries that were done to perfection, golden with a light crust on the outside and white fluffy inside. Not one over done or a burnt one in the stack. I guessed it was just luck, maybe they just cleaned out the fryer. The next time it was a cheese potato jacket (whole baked potato), this is when I realized it was the potatoes themselves. The skin was thin and the inside was creamy and delish. I was reminded again at another lunch how versatile their humble potatoes were, as my plate included a boiled potato, which I would not eat at home unless mashed with lots of salt, pepper, butter, and some kind of cream or milk to disguise them. Not so with these potatoes. Enough about the potatoes, I’ll just end it by saying if you happen to make your way here, do try the potatoes.
What’s up with seeking out murals and abandoned buildings?
Some might wonder what’s up with the seemingly endless quest for murals and abandoned places. Besides the obvious photo opportunities and appreciation of the art and design of others, it is a great way to get out and exploring off the beaten path. It prompts you to notice your surroundings more closely as you hunt for your photo prey of the moment. The mural may be recessed in an alley or lane that you would otherwise overlook. Once there, you discover that there are other things to see, curiosities, historic artifacts, or something that gives insight into the area. Sometimes the search has the added benefit for introverts like us to start talking to strangers. One small question about where to find a local unadvertised point of interest often leads to additional interesting local intel.
Now our musical adventures for the evening.
As you may have noticed we have been trying to mix up our musical events. Tonight was no exception. Tonight’s show was not in our usual center city location. It was taking place a bit over two miles out of center city on the Great Western Road, which leads out of the city to the area around the old campus of the University of Glasgow. The venue, Oran Mor, was in a large, old church. Apparently large enough that a few shows could go simultaneously without interfering with each other.
It still being a bit early after our meal and street ramble break, we thought we might take in a couple of the free shows at the main concert hall and catch the subway or cab to the venue after. As we walked up the hill, the people were still out and about and the people watching and buskers were a great distraction, we decided to linger on the streets watching them. We followed the busy streets and its people just doing their normal life things and before you know it, we were walking out of center city and I said lets just do the walk, didn’t get many steps in today. Making our way past all of our furthest venture points to-date heading up yet another hill to the Great Western road.
We arrived at our destination in good time. Doors opened at 7:30 (half seven in their lingo) which has been the usual opening time at the concerts. We were at the head of the queue, hoping to get in one of the few seats in this standing venue which, in the end, we were able to snag a booth seat along the wall.
The first band on was really good from what we could actually hear. The bass was turned up to reverb volumn drowning out the female vocals and fiddle player, but the drummer and bass player were amped up fine. The usual screaming and cheering ensued.
The main event was An Dannse Dub, with a female Gaelic support singer Joy Dunlop. As their name hints, they are a mash up of traditional music and dub dance music. With that in mind, you can imagine that this place was rocking from all the dancing and swaying going on. Not just from the young folks but the old gray hairs which there were plenty of were out there kicking up their heels. I even saw what looked like my grandmother Louise out there in her 1960’s fancy cap, tights, fashionable sweater tunic and sensible sneakers traded in for her spikes. Gave me such a heartfelt smile to see her there drink in hand ready to party.
The band played long sets full of great tunes, with a few Gaelic songs in between and they even played my favorite which I didn’t expect. It’s called My Blood Runs Deep, you can find it on Spotify and probably Pandora. Their sound was managed better for their session. We could her Joy’s voice clearly even through among the screaming fans and dub base.
We were able to grab a taxi and get down to the Glee Club (a.k.a, Festival Club) for our last late night show of the trip. We were close to the front of the queue which let us grab one of the rare seats. As usual, the music was varied but this night featured more rocking band.
